Basic Professional French Cooking
On www.melaniff.com since 2016
Introduction to Basic Techniques
Session 12
1.Methods of Cooking Meat
The basic classifications of cooking meat (and other foods) are by extraction and by concentration. The terms refer to whether the method draws juices our of the item (extraction) or locks it in (concentration).
Extraction begins with the item and cooking medium cold in order to extract the natural juices, which will dissolve into the cooking liquid. Poaching and boiling are methods of cooking by extraction (poaching is simply boiling at a low simmer. Most items should be poached since the violent movement of boiling may damage them). Pieces are blanched and refreshed as soon as the come to a boil. They are then returned to the pot of cold water and brought again to a boil. They are skimmed and the aromatic elements are added (usually a bouquet garni, carrots, leeks, celery, and an onion stuck with a clove, plus salt). Cook slowly, covered. Cooking time depends on the size and nature of the items being cooked. Finish the dish according to the recipe.
Extraction is used for dishes such as marmites, blanquettes du veau, poached chicken, etc.
Concentration seals meat juices inside by the coagulation of albumin on the surface. Roasting and sautéing are methods of cooking by concentration, as is grilling. The grill must be absolutely clean and hot, so scrub the ribs with a metal brush and oil them lightly. Also oil the product lightly so it won’t stick and ‘quadriller’ it (mark it with criss-cross grill marks) by placing it on the grill briefly, then turning it 45º turn. Do not prick or puncture the product as this would let the juices drain out.
What cooking meat, the doneness can be judged to some extent by touch. The rarer meat is, the softer it is to the touch. Don’t put very cold meat on the grill or the outside will burn before the inside is cooked.
Degrees of Doneness
Bleu - Very rare
Saignant - Rare
A Point - Medium
Bien Cuit - Well Done
2.Veal
Veal is the meat from young calves, ideally from animals which have not yet been weaned. Perfect veal is white to slightly rose with an iridescent sheen. The flesh should be slightly elastic when touched, but firm. The fat should be very white and abundant around the kidneys.
Inferior veal comes from calves who were weaned too early and grazed in a pasture. Flesh from these calves is rose to red, stringy and dry, and the fat is grayish. Also, meat from an animal who was killed too early is soft, flaccid, and insipid and there is little fat around the kidneys.
Veal cuts are classified by category and use. First category cuts are the highest quality, and can be cooked using dry heat methods because they are so tender, Second and third category cuts require cooking methods which tenderize them, such as stewing and braising.
3.Beef
4.Veal Chart
5.Beef Chart
RECIPES
Entrecôtes Grilles
Blanquette de Veau à l’Ancienne
Rice Pilaf
First Category
Cut
Usage
Ribs
Chops
Loin
Escalopes
Top Round
Roasts
Second Category
Cut
Usage
Shoulder
Stews
Bottom Round
Roasts
Third Category
Cut
Usage
Breast
Stews
Neck
Braising
Shank